Standing there, the building holds its ground against the storm raging above it and so first makes the storm itself manifest in its violence. The luster and gleam of the stone, though itself apparently glowing only by the grace of the sun, first brings to radiance the light of the day, the breadth of the sky, the darkness of the night. The temple’s firm towering makes visible the invisible space of air. The steadfastness of the work contrasts with the surge of the surf, and its own repose brings out the raging of the sea.
This passage is quoted in Sarah Bakewell’s 2016 history of existentialism and phenomenology, At the Existentialist Cafe: Freedom, Being & Apricot Cocktails – one of the most off-putting titles for a book I have ever come across and one which (I’m sorry to say) stopped me picking it up until recently. Don’t judge this book by it’s cover – it’s very good! She says of Heidegger’s temple, ‘I’m prepared for the possibility that someone else will find this boring or even odious. But Heidegger’s idea that a human architectural construction can make even the air show itself differently has stayed somewhere behind my perceptions of buildings and art ever since I read the essay.’
Heidegger had never seen a Greek temple when he wrote this but in 1962 he finally decided to go on an Aegean cruise, along with his wife and a centre right politician friend ‘who had a past at least as embarrassing as Heidegger’s since he’d joined the Nazi Party in 1937.’ Cromwell describes Heidegger’s disappointment with Olympus, ruined by ‘hotels for American tourists’, and also with Crete, Rhodes and Athens. Finally though, they encountered some gleaming white ruins on a headland – the Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion.
The bare rock of the cape lifted the temple towards the sky. Heidegger noted how ‘this single gesture of the land suggests the invisible nearness of the divine’, then observed that even though the Greeks were great navigators, they ‘knew how to inhabit and demarcate the world against the barbarous’. Even now, surrounded by sea, Heidegger’s thoughts naturally turned to imagery of enclosing, bounding and holding in.
Edward Dodwell, Temple of Poseidon, 1821
In her concluding chapter Cromwell acknowledges the continuing interest in Heidegger’s writing about technology and ecology but highlights again a claustrophobic quality in his writing – ‘his dimly lit world of forest paths and tolling bells’. She prefers Simone de Beauvoir’s enduring fascination with the world and quotes (twice) from Force of Circumstance in which de Beauvoir lists some of the experiences that have made up her life. I’ll end with these, a sequence of condensed landscapes: ‘the dunes of El-Oued, Wabanasia Avenue, the dawns in Provence, Tiryns, Castro talking to five hundred thousand Cubans, a sulphur sky over a sea of clouds, the purple holly, the white nights of Leningrad, the bells of the Liberation, an orange moon over the Piraeus, a red sun rising over the desert…’
