I enjoyed Martin Gayford’s new book Venice: City of Pictures. Reading it felt like returning to a well-loved painting and finding new, interesting details. For example, he cites a book about Tiepolo I’ve not read, written by Svetlana Alpers and Michael Baxendall, which describes the ceiling of the Gesuati, painted in 1738. The surrounding roofscape reflects and absorbs light and ‘Alpers and Baxendall seem to have spent days observing the resulting fluctuations in illumination, such as occasionally visible ‘moving ripple of light’ bouncing up from the waves of the Canale della Giudecca, the wide expanse of lagoon that lies in front of the church. There is also ‘an electrifying occasional five minutes in late afternoon when the sun is low enough in the west both to shine direct through the west windows and to reflect back strongly from the east wall on which it falls.” Venice has been painted by countless topographical artists but here is an example of the way light and the cityscape transform even the art inside its churches.
Paul Klee, Lagunenstadt, 1932
I could talk here about some of the landscape paintings Gayford discusses by Canaletto, Turner, Ruskin, Whistler or Monet, but instead I’ll just features this one by Paul Klee, because I particularly like it. Klee’s visit was ‘the most fleeting of all the artists chronicled in this book’ – just a few days in the autumn of 1932. Lagunenstaft (Lagoon city) ‘is in its modest, whimsical way one of the most perceptive of all the vistas of this most painted of places.’ The confusing city streets are conveyed by those rectangles at the bottom. Above them ‘a few higher and more separated trapezoids’ probably represent the structures around the Piazza San Marco that Klee described as ‘a unique creation in stone’. And above and beyond these are the water and the sky.
